Shoemaking



I I ,708,552 April 9,1929. J. v. POOLE 1 SHOEMAKING Filed Oct. 29, 1926v QTdOT W56 X 5 Patented Apr. 9, 1929.

untrue STATES harem oFFicE.

JESSE V. POOLE, OF ABINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSI GNOR TKIERSTEAD-ANDERSON 00., ENG, 0F BRQCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATIONOF MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOEMAKING.

Application filed October 2a, 1926. Serial No. 1441951.

This invention relatesto shoe making and more particularly to themanufacture by the McKay method of a shoe which will have the pleasingappearance of a double deck welt 5 shoe with two lines of stitching atdifferent levels on the projectingedge of the sole.

The object of the invention is to produce a novel and improved mock weltshoe of the McKay type built in such a way as to combine with therelatively light and inexpensive Mc- Kay construction the advantages instyle and appearance of a double deck welt shoe with its double line ofstitching adjacent the edge of the sole.

VVit-h this object in view the various features of the invention consistin the structures, arrangement of parts and method of constructionhereinafter described and claimed and together with the advantages to beattained thereby will be readily understood by those skilled in the artfrom the following description taken in connection with the accompanyingdrawings in which Fig. I is a cross sectional view of a shoe embodyingthe various features of the invention; Fig. 2 is a perspective view ofthe ornamental welt strip or bead which is utilized inthe constructionshown in Fig.1. I

- The mock welt McKay shoe illustrated in i the'drawings as thepreferred embodiment of the present invention comprises an upper andinsole ofordinary design, an outsole on the upper margin of which is aline of stitching, I and a narrow welt strip or bead ornamented on itstop surface with a second line of stitching and located in the creasebetween the upper and the outsole and inside the line of stitching alongthe margin of the outsole. Thus a double decked margin is obtainedhaving two lines of stitches at different levels and giving theappearance of a double decked welt shoe.

Referring more specifically to the draw- ,ings, the outsole isillustrated as comprising a rubber or composition wearing surfaceindicated at 4 which is cemented to a leather outsole indicated at 6. Aline of stitching 8 such as would ordinarily be used to secure togetherthe two soles'of a double deck shoe extends around the margin of thesole. An upper of ordinary design is indicated at 10, and the insole at12.

The welt strip or bead illustrated in detail in Fig. 2 comprises a fiatstrip of material 14 which isstitched down the middle and then foldedover at one side of the scam, the flaps being cemented together so thatthe stitching indicated at 16 appears on the upper edge or surface ofthe fold. The chain stitch and heavy thread utilized for this purposetend to thicken the fold so that it will fit into the crease between theupper and the outsole and form a pronounced ledge or deck adjacent theupper. To avoid unnecessary thickness of the welt strip or bead where itextends between the upper and outsole, and further to insure its properassembly with the other parts of the shoe, the strip is thinned orskived at the edge of the material so that when folded and cemented thewelt or bead in its final form is wedge shaped in appearance and tapersgrad ually to the inside.

The parts of the shoe above described are assembled as follows: The weltstrip or bead 14 formed as above described is temporarily secured to theoutsole with its marginal line of stitches by any convenient means'suchas the tacks 18, the cemented edges of the material to the inside andthe thicker portion with .its ornamental stitching 16 forming a deck atthe side of the upper and just inside the stitching 8 on the outsole.The outsole and bead are then assembled with the insole and upper, andthe whole is secured by a seriesof appropriate fastenin 's around theedge of the inside of the shoe. I n the preferred embodiment of theinvention a stitch is used for this purpose the thread 20 passingthrough the insole, upper, bead and outsole in that order to bind theparts firmly together. A filling material 22 may be inserted between theinsole and outsole if required to even up the inside surface of thesole.

With the construction above described the pleasing and substantialappearance of a double decked welt shoe including the provision of awell matched double seam, is obtained in a shoe of the McKay type at acomparatively low cost and without sacrificing the lightness andflexibility. in construction which is characteristic of McKay shoes.

By finishing the welt strip or bead with its ornamental stitching beforeitsassembly into the shoe it is possible to assemble the parts into afinished product with a minimum .of labor and skill, requiring only thatthe welt be properly placed on the outsole to obtain aperfectly matcheddouble seam.

The present construction also makes possible a considerable saving ofmaterialin that the welt strip or bead is not carried out to the edge ofthe sole but may be reduced to a minimum'to serve its purpose.

While in the drawings and in the foregoing description the shoe is shownand described as comprising a double or compound outsole and the seam ofstitches along the margin thereof serves to unite such parts together aswell as to give an ornamental appearance tothe shoe,'it is to beunderstood that the present invention is not limited thereto butcontemplates any suitable form or type of outsole with an exposed seamof stitches on its top surface adjacent its edge.

Nor is the present invention limited to a shoe in which the parts aresecured together by a seam of stitches passing through outsole, bead,upper and insole on the inside of the shoe, as any other satisfactorytype of fastening device may be employed.

The invention having been described, what is claimed is:

1. The method of making a shoe of the McKay type having the appearanceof a double deck welt shoe which comprises stitching a seam around themargin of the outsole similar to that used to secure together the solesof a double deck welt shoe,

forming a welt strip or bead by stitching a strip of welting along itsmiddle and folding the same over along a line adjacent the line ofstitching, securing the bead to the sole within the first mentionedseam, with the edges of the bead to the inside and the seam of stitcheson the exposed top surface of the bead, and finally securing togetherthe insole, upper, bead and outsole by a series of fastenings inside theshoe passing through said parts.

2. The method of making a shoe of the McKay type having the appearanceof a double deck welt shoe which comprises stitching a seam around themargin of the outsole similar to that used to secure togather the twosoles of a double deck welt shoe, securing to the outsole within thesaid seam a welt strip or bead provided with a seam of stitches on itsexposed top surface to simulate the seam which attaches the welt to thetop sole of a double deck welt shoe, and finally securing together theinsole, upper, head and outsole by a series of fastenings passingthrough the seam.

3. In a shoe of the McKay type having a double decked margin thecombination of an upper, an insole, an outsole, a line of stitching onthe margin of the outsole, a welt strip or head consisting of a strip ofrelatively thin sheet material stitched along themiddle and folded overwith the edges to the inside to show a second line of stitching abovethe margin of the sole, fastenin devices passing through the welt stripor bead, and entering the outsole to secure the former to thelatterand-a series of'fastenings inside the shoe securing the upper, insole,bead,

and outsole firmly together.

' 4. In a shoe of the McKay type having a double decked margin thecombination of an upper, an insole, an outsole, a line of stitchingadjacent the margin of the outsole, a welt strip or bead, a line ofstitching on the exposed top surface of the welt to give the effect of adouble decked welt shoe, fastoning devices for securing the welt stripor bead to the outsole, and a line of stitching passing through theinsole, upper, bead, and outsole for securing together said parts.

5. In a shoe of the McKay type having a double decked margin thecombination of an upper, an insole, an outsole, a line of stitching onthe margin of the outsole, a narrow welt strip or bead between theaforesaid line of stitching and the upper, a second line of stitchingappearing on the bead'to give the effect of a double deck .welt shoe,independent means for securing the bead to the outsole, and a series offastenings passing through the insole, upper, bead and outsole JESSE V.POOLE.

